1.26.2019

Recipe test: Lucky Charm Brownies

My house is loaded with chocolate right now. After Christmas, our junk pail (an old metal "Gremlins" lunchbox where we stash packaged sweets) is filled with the stuff, and I'm waiting for just the right moments to partake, as long as I don't forget about them. I enjoy chocolate, but I'm not one to crave it. If different varieties of desserts are covering a table (what a fantasy), I will almost assuredly opt for the non-chocolate options.

But what care you, the rest of the world, who will gladly eat the portions I don't? Through my baking with Dorie Greenspan's recipes, I am learning she has a strong fondness for it. Without investigation to back up my estimations, I'd say that at least 50 percent of the recipes in Dorie's Cookies contain chocolate, 40 percent feature it prominently, and there are at least four recipes for brownies.

Here's one of them.

Despite the name Lucky Charm Brownies, they contain no trace of dried technicolor marshmallow or crystallized wheat cereal. They do, however, contain amaretti, those delightfully airy, easily poppable almond meringue cookies you might find on the saucer with your espresso.

This recipe could be gluten-free if the amaretti were...I think the traditional ones made by Lazzaroni are, but whatever off-brand variety Rosauers carried added wheat.

Regardless, the taste of amaretto comes through beautifully, and the amaretti-sprinkled glaze makes these brownies more like a decorated and decadent flourless chocolate cake. I suppose I could have simply baked this in a round cake pan and no one would have been the wiser.

I cut 1-inch squares and call them truffles. Because, sorry Dorie, these are not brownies. I've kept them in the fridge, at her recommendation, and cut the squares as I need them. We left half the slab with friends last weekend, and one week later, there's exactly one square left for someone in this house. Slow to disappear, long to savor.

The recipe is posted here on Food52.

A couple notes from my experience:

1. If you have a kitchen scale, definitely use it to weigh the ingredients. The amaretti I found were much lighter or smaller than the ones she described, so I had to use more cookies. I weighed the almonds and chocolate, too. This is my key to success when baking.

2. I used dark chocolate (72%) because I couldn't find bittersweet. Still had a nice, slightly bitter flavor, and maybe a little less sweet.

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